part3.tex

% This is an example of how to use the "npsthesis" document style for theses
% Modified for personal use by Fabrice Ardhuin, 2001/03/10
%
%  TO DO : add http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/db/Munk_ICCE_1950_Fig1.svg  in ch1 

\documentclass[a4paper]{book}  % psfig for Encapsulated PostScript
%\usepackage{fullpage}
\addtolength{\oddsidemargin}{-0.4in} \addtolength{\evensidemargin}{-1.1in}
\addtolength{\textwidth}{1.5in} \addtolength{\topmargin}{-0.5in}
\addtolength{\textheight}{1.4in}
\usepackage[pdftex]{graphicx}
\usepackage{amsmath}
\usepackage{bm}
\pdfcompresslevel9
\usepackage[american]{babel}
% %\usepackage{upmath}
\usepackage[latin1]{inputenc}
%\usepackage[pdflatex]{graphics}
\usepackage{makeidx}
\usepackage{hyperref}
\usepackage{float}
\usepackage[section]{placeins}
 \usepackage{xcolor}
\hypersetup{
    colorlinks,
    linkcolor={red!50!black},
    citecolor={blue!50!black},
    urlcolor={blue!80!black}
}

%\usepackage[pdftex,plainpages=false]{hyperref}
\usepackage{natbib}
\setlength{\bibsep}{0em}

%\degree{Doctor of Philosophy In Oceanography}

% these macros save typing:
\newcommand{\beq}{\begin{equation}}
\newcommand{\beqa}{\begin{eqnarray}}
\newcommand{\eeq}{\end{equation}}
\newcommand{\eeqa}{\end{eqnarray}}
%
%\newcommand\p3{Part 3}
%\newcommand\p2{Part 2}
%\newcommand\p1{Part 1}

%   don't have right font for script R, so use:
\renewcommand{\Re}{{\cal R}}
\providecommand\boldsymbol[1]{\mbox{\boldmath $#1$}}
\providecommand\bnabla{\boldsymbol{\nabla}}
\providecommand\bcdot{\boldsymbol{\cdot}}
\providecommand\upi{\pi}
\newcommand\biS{\mathbf{S}}
\newcommand\cb{\mathbf{c}}
\newcommand\Cb{\mathbf{C}}
\newcommand\Mb{\mathbf{M}} 
\newcommand\dr{\mathrm{d}}
\newcommand\er{\mathrm{e}}
\newcommand\etb{\mathbf{\eta}}
\newcommand\ir{\mathrm{i}}
\newcommand\hu{\widehat{u}}
\newcommand\hv{\widehat{v}}
\newcommand\hw{\widehat{w}}
\newcommand\uL{\overline{u}^L}
\newcommand\wL{\overline{w}^L}
\newcommand\Eb{\mathbf{E}}
\newcommand\Sb{\mathbf{S}}
\newcommand\Ub{\mathbf{U}}
\newcommand\ub{\mathbf{u}}
\newcommand\xb{\mathbf{x}}
\newcommand\Kb{\mathbf{K}}
\newcommand\kb{\mathbf{k}}
\newcommand\kpb{\mathbf{k^{\prime}}}
\newcommand\lb{\mathbf{l}}
\newcommand\zerob{\mathbf{0}}
\newcommand\Deltab{\mathbf{\Delta}}
\newcommand\etal{\mbox{\textit{et al.}}}
\newcommand\etc{etc.\ }
\newcommand\eg{e.g.\ }
\newcommand\Real{\mathrm{Real}}
\newcommand\Frou{\mbox{\textit{Fr}}}  % Froude number
\newcommand\ttz{\ensuremath{\rightarrow 0}}
\newcommand\Ur{\mbox{\textit{Ur}}}  % Ursell number
\newcommand\Vb{\mathbf{V}}
\newcommand\zb{\overline{\zeta}}  
\newcommand\zL{\overline{\zeta}^L}

\def\sfbsL{\mathsfbi{L}}
\def\sfbsV{\mathsfbi{V}}
\def\sfbsD{\mathsfbi{D}}
\def\d{.}    % decimal mark

\newcommand{\boxedeqn}[1]{%
  \[\fbox{%
      \addtolength{\linewidth}{-2\fboxsep}%
      \addtolength{\linewidth}{-2\fboxrule}%
      \begin{minipage}{\linewidth}%
      \begin{equation}#1\end{equation}%
      \end{minipage}%
    }\]%
}


\begin{document}
\title{{\Huge Ocean waves in geosciences }
{\Large \\  part 3: more waves!}
 \vspace{0.1cm}\\
   \centerline{\includegraphics[width=\textwidth]{DOLP_0_from_peter_20160203.jpg}}}
%%%%%%%%%%%%% figure
%\begin{figure}
%\centerline{\includegraphics[width=0.7\textwidth]{couv_cours.eps}}
%\vspace{3.64in}
%\end{figure}
%%%%%%%%%%%%% end of figure
\author{Fabrice Ardhuin, \\
Laboratoire d'Oc{\'e}anographie Physique et Spatiale, Brest,
France \\
%doi:  10.13140/RG.2.2.16019.78888/11, 
 \url{https://github.com/ardhuin/waves_in_geosciences} \\
\vspace{1.5cm}\\
} \maketitle
\clearpage
On the cover: a 2 meter wide view of the ocean surface, somewhere near Brest, France, on 3 February 2016. The grey scale represents the Degree of Linear Polarization that is related to the surface slope. This picture Image courtesy of Peter Sutherland. It illustrates that, paraphrasing Richard Feynman  "there is plenty of room at the bottom": we are far from understanding all the processes that occur at small scales and create specific patterns on the sea surface. This book touches on some of these, starting with non-linear wave phenomena. 
 \cleardoublepage
\pagenumbering{roman}

\setcounter{page}{3}

\tableofcontents
\cleardoublepage


%\mainmatter
\setcounter{chapter}{20}

\pagenumbering{arabic}
\chapter*{Foreword: plenty of room at the bottom}\label{foreword2}
This third part details some of the topics briefly discussed in the first two parts, 
such as wave non-linearities, wave generation by the wind
and wave-current interactions. It also adresses other topics that have just been mentionned, such as the generation of 
seismic and acoustic noise by the waves. As the cover suggests, there is are many detailed processes that we have hardly observed at small scales, where wind waves and current are tightly coupled. These will feedback on larger scales and probably hold the key to the evolution of large scales. For example, wind-wave generation is governed by the details of the air flow over waves which depends on the roughness provided by short gravity-capillary waves. Swell dissipation is presumably governed by air sea friction  and the details of the turbulent boundary layer (within a few centimeters from the interface) but these small effects add up over the weeks and thousands of kilometers of swell propagation to transfer energy from the ocean back to the atmosphere. This importance of small scales is also obvious in the observation of the ocean with radars and radiometers. If we are serious about making sense of these observations we can certainly use more of the remote sensing data, beyond the usual parameters, to tell us something about the non-linear properties of the ocean. Satellite altimeters can be used to measure the skewness of the surface elevation that reveal things about short wave - long wave interactions. Other measurements of radar back scatter likewise measure the modulation of short waves: a Modulation Transfer Function (used for CFOSAT or SAR inversion) is a way to get from the measurements to the wave spectrum, it is also a useful scientific measurements of the modulation. There is thus plenty of room for documenting, understanding and building parameterizations of the small scale processes that define the surface geometry and its motions. 
\cleardoublepage
\chapter{Nonlinear waves over a flat bottom}\label{ch_nonlin}
\input{ch_nonlin} 
\cleardoublepage
\chapter{Waves at second order}\label{chnl2}
\input{ch_nonlin2}
\cleardoublepage
%\chapter{Wave-wave interactions: \\ general properties of random wave scattering}\label{chwwscat}
%\input{ch_interactions_en}
%\cleardoublepage
\chapter{Ocean waves and microseisms}\label{chsismo}
\input{ch_sismo}
\cleardoublepage
\chapter{Microbaroms}\label{chbaroms}
\input{ch_microbaroms}
%\cleardoublepage
% \chapter{Generation of waves by the wind}\label{ch_Satm}
% \input{ch_Satm_en}
%\cleardoublepage
%\chapter{Wave breaking and dissipation}\label{ch_sds}
%\input{ch_sds_en}
%\cleardoublepage
%\chapter{Waves in non-homogeneous media}\label{ch_nonhom}
%\input{ch_nonhom}
%\cleardoublepage
%\chapter{Wave-current interactions in three dimensions}\label{ch_vaguescourant3D}
%\input{ch_3Dcur}
%\cleardoublepage



%\bibliographystyle{ametsocjmk_nourl}   % si on n'utilise pas  hyperref
\bibliographystyle{ametsocjmk_en}         % avec  hyperref
\bibliography{wave}  % see main.bib; used BibTeX to generate main.bbl




\end{document}        % That's All, Folks!