fix: Make Select * avoid code gen for projections

[AlanConfluent]

Description

Prior to #6684, select * didn't compile expressions for each of the columns, which makes them much more performant. This PR remakes that change to avoid a regression.

Testing done

Unit tests and local benchmarking

Reviewer checklist

• Ensure docs are updated if necessary. (eg. if a user visible feature is being added or changed).
• Ensure relevant issues are linked (description should include text like "Fixes #")

[agavra]

LGTM - thanks for the quick fix on this one. For anyone following along, we'll need to figure out something long-term to make all pull queries (not just select * queries) efficient (or set expectations around what the expected performance of queries are).