It's a 3D-printable eurorack case.
My design goals:
-A complete case (not just rails and brackets)
-Print in as few pieces as possible
-Simple assembly with as little post-processing as possible
-Easy to power
-Deep enough to fit my deepest module (a circuitbenders.co.uk Phonic Taxidermist). This is no skiff!
Wanting to print in as few pieces as possible means that the size was limited by the size of my printer (Ender 3). As it happens, the maximum height on an Ender 3 is very close to 42HP, which is a fairly standard eurorack case size. Assembly is simple, just three screws and three nuts—the screws and nuts it's designed to assemble with can also be used in the rails to hold modules, so just order a bunch!
For the last goal, I wanted to build in accommodations for a PSU/busboard that other DIYers could easily get a hold of. I eventually found the MMI USB Power, which turned out to be a nearly-perfect solution. It's a great size for a 42HP case and can provide an appropriate amount of current for a case this size too. With a USB connector to provide power, you can actually run this case from USB power banks, which is cool. And it's open-source, so even if it becomes unavailable at some point in the future, the design files will remain for intrepid DIYers. All I had to do to accommodate is add three M3 mounting points
NOTE: I have not yet tested this particular iteration of the design. I printed two previous iterations, and while each is perfectly usable, this version corrects small errors related to mounting the PSU. Everything should be fixed, but YMMV of course, no guarantees until I find myself needing a third case ;)
When printing I had a little trouble with the bottom of the print lifting/warping. Adding the curved corners helped but didn't solve the problem. The prints all finished successfully and are fully functional, but you may need to play with your settings. The shape is unfortunately just prone to warping.
For the rails and the case assembly, you want 7mm M2.5 screws, and M2.5 square nuts. I got my screws on eBay and got my square nuts from Synthcube. To assemble the case, first put your preferred number of square nuts into each rail (18-20 per rail should be plenty). You may want to fix the last nut in each rail with a screw to keep them from falling out as you attach the side. Put three square nuts in the small slots in the side piece. I find it easiest to set the side piece on the table, and set the main piece on top of it. put screws through the main piece at the three indentations, and screw them into the square nuts.
For mounting the MMI power supply, you want three M3 screws. I found that the mounting holes are just snug enough to allow the M3 screws to self-thread and hold the PCB without any additional hardware, but if you want to be sure, you can get some longer M3s and corresponding nuts—the holes go all the way through the back of the case for this reason.
No need to wrench the screws, either on the side or in the rails! This thing is pretty sturdy but its still just plastic!
This design is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) license. You are free to share and adapt this design as you like, with only the following restrictions: Attribution — You must give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made. You may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way that suggests the licensor endorses you or your use. NonCommercial — You may not use the material for commercial purposes. ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original.